First, the wheel is checked for structural integrity and radial run out. With the proper heat, consistent hydraulic pressure and light vibrations under pressure, the alloy wheel will move – without cracking – back to its original condition.

Once identified, each wheel is washed thoroughly to remove all brake dust and enable our repair techs to properly evaluate the extent of damage. This is particularly important because brake dust removal is essential to determining the level of damage to a wheel. But it must be done correctly, because wheels with a polished or anodized finish can be damaged if the wrong washing compound is used.

A dial indicator is used to determine run out. on the wheel. The distance the wheel traveled up and down while spinning would be 5/1,000 of an inch both in the high and low position – or swing.

Lateral run out., on the other hand, is how much the damaged wheel will wobble from side to side. On some larger diameter wheels subjected to a hard pothole hit or curb, the wheel will be bent and, if hit hard enough, it will bend and twist the spokes. Most lateral run out. can be corrected with pressure on the back of the wheel.

But when there is extreme lateral run out, the wheel is deemed unrepairable.

Lateral run out. is the hardest type of repair to accomplish. It also happens to be the most deceptive, because while a wheel may look like it has only minor rim damage, it can actually be fairly significant and not easily seen to the naked eye unless the wheel is spinning. This is especially common on newer front-wheel-drive cars, where much of the force is cantilevered to the back.

The Acu-Tru process is designed with safety above everything else and, for that reason, a wheel is irrrepairable if it contains a crack similar to the following: Near the base of a spoke, Near the lug area On the inner lip of the wheel away from the spokes. (But if a crack is smaller in size, this type of damage is usually salvageable.)

The wheel is inspected for defects, searching out poor paint finish or additional scuffs and scratches.

If the wheel needs refinishing, it is first stripped using an acrylic medium similar to sand. This medium is superior to steel shot or metal oxide, which are more commonly used. Though they remove the finish more quickly and are cheaper, they also rough up the surface and tear away some of the metal. This is particularly destructive when you want to retain any original cast markings that the manufacturer has displayed.

The wheel is placed in a blast cabinet with circulating plastic beads, removing the finish without removing metal. But we do not do this in every situation, because old paint is always the best primer base. We will sometimes fill in the existing finish, prep the surface and cover it with new paint.

The next step in the process is straightening the wheel. This removes the majority of the damage as well as any side-to-side wobble.

Once the wheel is true, it is time to refinish, re-machine or re-polish the wheel. We use a computer color-matching system to match the factory paint finish. If the color is not on file, our painters can match by eye, or deliver a custom finish that is white, anthracite or matched to the owner’s specifications.

All wheel finishes are guaranteed for two years. In addition We assure that the wheel will be free of material defect. While this warranty does not cover previous repair wheel scraping or damage to the finish due to the use of improper cleaning chemicals or customer error, it does cover discoloration, fading or peeling for no reason.

If the wheel has a machined finish, it is put on a lathe. for most factory and many custom wheels. If we don’t have it in stock, We will locate a wheel within hours.

Upon completion, each wheel is subjected to a final quality check. It is examined for run out and the finish is checked for dirt or dust in the paint, unevenness or orange peel. If everything checks out, the wheel is ready for tire mounting or delivery.